Acid date collectible?
I have never had any continue to eat away doing this. I had never seen an 'acid retored date' before, but could easily see the discolouration on the coin. Many factors can spoil the sample before testing as well, exposing the sample to heat or direct light may cause some of the electrons to dissipate, causing the item to date younger.
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For those without experience in chemical safety, the best recommendation is to only work with small quantities after reading up on the chemical. It takes 5, years for half the carbon to change to nitrogen; this is the half-life of carbon Use of any images or content on this website without prior written permission of Coin Community or the original lender is strictly prohibited. DO NOT attempt to mix chemicals you are not aware of the results. I think I saw something like this on a "CSI" TV show, with car engine numbers that were filed off, I'm amazed that it works on coins also.
Beat to the punch by just carl. Don't say "infinitely" when you mean "very"; otherwise, you'll have no word left when you want to talk about something really infinite. Biggest reason for the use of the acid date nickels is it is much less expensive to obtain more valuable coins. I for one, will never have a full set of buffaloes, walking liberties, mercury head dims, etc. Just too much expense and not the biggest priority compared to other things going on.
That being said, I have seen 2 complete acid date sets of buffaloes that even included the great three legged and other key dates. I have hydrocloric acid at home for the swimming pool , I'll have to give it a go. DO NOT try this unless you know what you are doing. Aqua Regia is a properly mixed combination of Nitric and Hydrochloric Acids and must be done in a certain sequence and in a certain proportion.
If improperly mixed you may not want to see the results. In fact you may never see any results of anything. DO NOT attempt to mix chemicals you are not aware of the results.
Chemistry Do not try to dilute sulphuric acid by putting water in it The reaction may cost you an eye On the other hand I saw the film with the restored motor number that was filed off The comprssion difference gives a porosity difference and it looked like in the film they used a creeping colored oil to read the chassis number.
If you use Aqua Regia, be careful of your wedding band. Aqua Regia will dissolve both Gold and Platinum. Gold is interesting because it won't dissolve in Nitric Acid or Hydrochloric Acid, but mix the two acids and they dissolve the gold. It's a destructive test to see if your gold jewelry is really gold.
I do not think it is a test The mixture will dissolve anything but rock I think. I would think if one was using Aqua Regia, the least of your worries would be your jewelry- your skin and bone will be gone before the jewelry dissolves. Thanks for the warning about chemicals, I will revise my origional post with a warning. Skin and Bone dissolves Gold will dissolve Mixing is dangerous Do not add water and the result is to make a.
The part of the test that distinguishes gold, is that most gold imitations will react to either Hydrochloric or Nitric Acid, whereas gold does not.
I don't want to give anyone a false sense of security, but giving large exagerations as to what can happen with skin and various chemicals does not help the cause of safety.
Nitric, Aqua Regia, Hydrochloric will not dissolve your skin on contact. Ammonia and Sodium Hydroxic do start to dissolve skin on contact it's what gives them a slippery feeling but not as fast as some here are implying. Please understand this though, these chemicals can cause chemical burns on contact. For some, a single whiff of the chlorine gas coming off of muratic acid is enough to require hospitalization.
Exagerating the effects will cause people to not take the warnings seriously. Before anyone attempts to utilize any chemical, they should google for the chemical name and "MSDS". Read the entire Material Safety Data Sheet before buying the chemical. This will not only educate the user on what precautions to take and how to dispose of the used chemical, but educate the user on what to do if they have an accident.
For those without experience in chemical safety, the best recommendation is to only work with small quantities after reading up on the chemical. Don't try to save money by ordering the 1 gallon supply of 18N HCL.
Rather play it safe and order the 8oz. For those wondering which acid is better, I'm guessing it's HCL as it dissolves Nickel, but not copper, which hopefully guarantees that you only ruin the surface of your nickel and don't accidentally dissolve the entire nickel.
Would this work on a Standing Liberty quarter I have that has a completely rubbed off date? Heat usually speeds up chemical reactions, therefore the neutralization occurs sooner.
When I am done, I just rinse under the sink and rub with my finger over the treated spot. I have never had any continue to eat away doing this. Just rinse and rub. Agilmore01 , May 28, It is not an acid by definition, it is a copper etchant, ferric chloride. It results in the production of free copper ions that are prohibited from waste water in most states and locals, especially those that obtain tap water from treating upstream disposal.
So it should not be rinsed into a municipal drain. Acids like the dilute acetic acid of vinegar should not work as well as Nic-a-Date as they dissolve both nickel and copper non-selectively , but can be neutralized with baking soda and disposed of down the drain, and is more available.
Watch for varieties claimed this way which are mechanically produced and then acid treated to remove rough remains, identical to treatment. Well, but ferric chloride the active ingredient in Nic-a-date is an acid, and also an oxidant. That's how it can attack copper, which isn't active enough to be attacked by simple acids technically, it won't displace hydrogen the way nickel is.
It etches both nickel and copper. Vinegar preferentially attacks nickel, since nickel is more chemically active, but it affects both metals. Flushing copper down the drain isn't good nickel either , but on the scale of ecological sins it's kind of low.
After all, you can still buy root killer pure copper sulfate in any hardware or garden store. The amount of ionic copper and nickel you produce restoring nickels is really, really tiny; neutralizing it is polite, but not critical.
Besides, I'm not sure how well it stays neutralized. Depends on how they're treating your wastewater, not to mention what chases it down the drain. Ferric chloride is not an acid. Just because when dissolved in water, the solution is acidic does not make it an acid.
However, I do agree that the amount of copper going down the drain is so minute as to be non-detectable. Thank you for the replies. My method is kinda long now but my coins I did last night are still looking good today.
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Besides, I'm not sure how well it stays neutralized. My method is kinda long now but my coins I did last night are still looking good today.
I now rinse in the sink, put in baking soda and water for a minute, then put in distilled water for a while. All amino acids except glycine the simplest one are optically active , having an asymmetric carbon atom. Proof Sets, 2 Franklins, 1 Koala Large silver coins for sale!
This entry was posted in ArticlesGeneral NewsNews. July Learn how and when to remove this template message. If chemicals work on Buffalo nickels, why not the quarter? Dendrochronology acid dating coins tree-ring dating is the acis method of dating based on the analysis of patterns of tree ringsalso acid dating coins as funny quotes dating rings. Agilmore01May 28, Or are they considerd identified year but damaged?
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