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LEDs for Beginners

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Unfortunately, I learned this key point after I wired my resistors together for the experiment. I don't fear the LED now. So the math is Here are two pages which explain in depth about how to calculate resistor values.

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You can also take a look inside the LED itself and see whats going on. This first experiment was pretty easy to do - just some wire twisting and enough knowledge to know that the 1. I think this will work simulate this circuit — Schematic created using CircuitLab. Duplicate per color channel. Moreover the behavior is different in comparison with the simple resistor plus LED circuit proposed by Ricardo.

Here are two pages which explain in depth about how to calculate resistor values. Do it yourself or Have it done for you I'll go through the examples of how I calculated the values myself in the next few steps when I start wiring up my LEDs.

For the time being I just admired their little colored stripes and moved on to trying to get just one LED to light up. First I had to decide what power source to use and which LED to light up. This may seem obvious, but this was my first time through so I might as well be as clear as possible LEDs require sufficient voltage to light them. Sometimes if you give them too little voltage they wont light at all, other times they will just shine dimly with low voltage.

Too much voltage is bad and can burn out the LED instantaneously. So ideally you would like the voltage of the LED to match the voltage of your power supply, or even be slightly less. To do this you can do a couple of things: For now I just wanted to get one lit up so I chose my the power supply that had the lowest voltage - the single AA battery which outputs 1.

I chose to light the red 1. I wrapped my positive wire from the battery to the positive electrode of the LED and wrapped the negative wire from the battery to my negative electrode and presto - let there be LED light! This first experiment was pretty easy to do - just some wire twisting and enough knowledge to know that the 1.

It was just a coincidence that I bought an LED that was 1. For this second setup I decided to use the same LED, but up my power supply to the three AA batteries wired together which output 4.

To figure out which resistor to use I used the formula: Again, my LED is 1. So the math is Knowing the value of a resistor requires reading the code from the color bands on the resistor itself. The package didn't come with a ohm resistor but it did come with a ohm one.

Its always better to use the next closest value resistor greater than what you calculated. Using a lower value could burn out your LED. To figure out the color code you basically break down the first two digits of the resistor value, use the third digit to multiply the first two by and then assign the fourth digit as an indicator of tolerance. That sounds a lot more difficult than it really is. Using the color to number secret decoder website found here , a ohm resistor should have the following color code Brown because the first digit in the value resistor I needed is 1 Green because the fifth digit is 5 Brown because in order to get to you have to add one 0 to 15 to get to I looked through all the resistors, found the one that was brown, green, brown, gold, and wired it in line on the positive electrode of the LED.

Low and behold, the LED lit up once again. The ohm resistor stopped enough of the 4. This is just the process that I went through to figure out what resistor to use with my particular LED with my particular power supply. You can easily use the formula above to figure out what value resistor to use with whatever LED and power source you happen to be using. When it comes to wiring more than one LED to a power supply there are two options. The first option is to wire them in series and the second is to wire them in parallel.

To see an in depth explanation about the difference between series and parallel check out this page. I'm going to cover wiring LEDs in series first. LEDs wired in series are connected end to end the negative electrode of the first LED connects to the positive electrode of the second LED and the negative electrode of the second LED connects to the positive electrode of the third LED and so on and so on The main advantage of wiring things in series is that it distributes the total voltage of the power source between all of the LEDs.

Ok, let's try wiring 2, 2. Just like LEDs, resistors can be wired together in either series or parallel see next step for an explanation on wiring things together in parallel. Your transistor can sink up to mA continuously. At 20mA per led, 4 per channel, that's only 80mA. That's more than enough. But make sure your power supply can support that.

OP Provided a Fritzing Diagram of the answer as well: By posting your answer, you agree to the privacy policy and terms of service. Questions Tags Users Badges Unanswered. Electrical Engineering Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for electronics and electrical engineering professionals, students, and enthusiasts.

Join them; it only takes a minute: Here's how it works: Anybody can ask a question Anybody can answer The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Here's how my board looks right now: VAlexander 76 1 1 9. Individual Control or all with the same color All Red at the same brightness, or essentially 12 individual leds? Ricard In contradiction to my previous comment - After correctly wiring to Vcc, the led does work!

Note what gbulmer said in his comments, though: These indicators work perfectly with the ArduinoISP sketch. To wire these LEDs, use the schematic below: Ricardo - is the first diagram really part of the schematic, or have you just sketched something to answer this question? I think it is broken, and can not work as shown. Also, would you show the value of R1 and R2. Ricardo - okay, that's better. That is exactly not what I am warning ZackB about.

A local piece of electronics to act as a buffer and hence drive the electronics is what I suggested. I am relaxed about how the problem is approached.

However, I think your circuit is not evidence that ZackB's circuit is robust and reliable. I'm just trying to be clear to minimise confusion. By looking at some FTDI cable datasheets, it says that they can sink ma. Not sure if drawing 5ma from the pins is a good idea. Chetan Bhargava 4, 5 20 If I am not mistaken this is op-amp used as a buffer? Is that how it is called? What is a typical value for R1 and R2?

I think the maximum current rating of 1 and 7 are 40mA. But what is the typical value with the given values? You can google for LED current calculator. ChetanBhargava, I used your circuit and it remains on all the time. I believe I've found the problem: TTL levels are true low if the voltage is 0.

So with your circuit you "compare" two voltages.

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arduino hook up led

I decided to do two different parallel setups. OK, now onto to actually doing the thing. Sign up or log in Sign up using Google.

arduino hook up led

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arduino hook up led

I mentioned 12 resistors, because similar to the image I posted, I want a resistor for each led pin, because I don't want to sacrifice brightness. I would like to use just one battery to light a white LED. For the second setup, Arduino hook up led decided to put everything I had learned together and wire the two LEDs in parallel to my 9V power supply - certainly too much juice for the LEDs alone so I would have to use a resistor for sure. The first one I tried was as simple as it arduino hook up led be - just two 1. You ts dating warsaw poland google for LED current calculator. I looked through all the resistors, found the one that was brown, green, brown, gold, and wired it in line on the positive electrode of the LED.